I have been intending to paint my Plague Marines with a verdigris paint scheme (based on the Reborn who were mentioned in the previous Chaos Codex) for about 6 years now and it has taken me breaking my leg to actually sit down and try it. The reason for this being that I was dreading it. It seemed to me like a cool idea, but the whole process just looked like it would be tricky.
This was actually the complete oposite of the case once I actually sat down and thought about it. No doubt that this was made even easier with the new paint range from Games Wokshop. Every time I use the new paints I am astounded at how smoothly they cover without gunking up details.
Firstly, I gave my models a coat of Chaos Black Spray and then used watered down Chaos Black all over to get into the gaps. I do this with all my models to be sure. It really helps later on with getting a smooth finish.
Then, I got a large flat brush (you could use a tank brush or a large brush) and covered the model in a smooth coat of Brass Scorpian. Make sure you give it a really good shake to mix the colour properly before using this paint.It looked like this:
This is the first time I have ever not watered down a paint before using it. It felt strange and unnatural, but as long as the paint is relatively new, you don’t really need to with the new range. Please see below on tips on how to make sure your brush has the correct amount of paint on it and how to make sure you have not overloaded your paintbrush.
I then used a drybrushto apply Golden Griffon Dry Comp0und all over the model:
At this point, I was intending to give the entire model a Serephim Sepia Shade to give it a bit more depth. However, I got carried away and had to apply this to the areas left gold at the end of the process. I recommend you do it here instead to save you the hassle.
Then I watered down Sotek Green with lots of Lahmian Medium to create a wash style effect and daubed it over the model unevenly. I also wiped it off a few bits to make sure it looked patchy. Giveing the below effect:
I then stippled Ice Blue (which in the new paint range is Lothern Blue or Temple Guard Blue if you want a slightly more green effect) over the top, again unevenly and in patches using a stippling brush, ensuring there was not much paint on my brush. This is how it turned out:
Depending on how light or dark you want it you could use Sotek Green stippled over the model before this layer to ensure it is more heavilly covered and even paint it into the recesses for a different effect. I did try this at first bit it looked too neat for what I wanted and took a very long time to do. 0
NB: One thing that is essential to remember if you intend to use paint out the pot is to use a tile! Wipe your paint brush on a tile, ensuring an even coverage over the brush without any ‘globs’ of paint (that is a technical term) left on the brush. Never use a paint brush where the paint is touching the metal part, this means you have too much paint on the brush- wash it out, dry it and start again. Similarly ensure the brush is not overloaded, you can tell this by pressing the brush down on a tile. If paint doesn’t splurge out the sides (again, another technical term you may not be familier with). then it is not overloaded.
This is not drybrushing and requires control and effort. However, you don’ have to be perfect and using a large brush makes the initial base coat quick and usually smooth. If your paint has dried out or is a bit thick, then add a little mdium or water until it will give a smooth coat in one layer. This may take a few goes. Remember also not to try and paint over an already wet area. Wait for the paint to dry before attempting to repaint the model. If the detial is obscured by the amount of paint you have put on, just sponge off the paint using a damp brush and then leave to dry before sarting again.