This may not be the most thrilling of ‘how to’ scenery painting guides. But lets be honest,. every game of Warhammer Fantasy needs woods – especially with the awesome new rules for random wood types.

Walls and Fences (one might argue) are less necessary. I beg to differ – walls and fences are in my opinion, an under used piece of terrain and can really lend character to a table. Be it creating a little farm in the corner with a few fences or lining a road with walls – they make a table look a little bit more lived in. Which makes it all the more satisfying when you have a particularly bloodthirsty and destructive battle on it. Don’t agree? Well…. tough.

We opted to do our woods and walls and fences all at the same time. Largely because they are all really basic drybrushing and washing techniques and because then the variety of the work would potentially make it easier for us to blitz through the whole lot.


Filled with excitement to get stuck into this array of thrilling scenery!

Part 1: Building and Painting Woods

The first challenge to building woods is getting the branches to stick on to the main trunk of the kit. They can often move or ‘droop’ as they are drying, leaving you with rather sorry looking trees. We found that the answer to this is simply to be patient. Stick one branch on your chosen side of the tree, hold it for about a minute and the miracles of plastic glue should hold. However, then turn the tree on it’s side so your chosen branch sticks up and leave it for a good 5 to 10 minutes more to ensure it is well and truly dry. This is where the temptation kicks in – to try to stick on another branch or two on the same side. Warning – This Is Folly! If you are even slightly clumsy – you will inevitably knock the drying branch and have to start the whole process again. In my case – multiple times. Just leave the poor thing alone and it should take very well indeed thank you very much. This may seem like a small issue to bring up but this first hurdle can drive many quite decent hobbyists to distraction and quite often violence.

Then, once you’ve got your branches on – the obvious next step is to stick on the leaves – right? NO! At least, we decided against it. The leaves in the kit are very pretty and look awesome on bases, but I have never achieved a long term solution to keeping them on the branches. So we opted to have autumn trees with some dead fall around the bases. If you really really want to do the leaves, some brave and foolhardy souls have been known to pin them onto the branches and I have also seen some very pretty leaves done with clump flock.

An example of how you can use the plastic leaf sections in the Citadel Woods on bases. Ignore the half painted Sister - she'll get finished one day.

Anyway… the next step is to make the trees themselves look awesome by removing mould-lines with a knife and filling in small gaps with liquid greenstuff. Some of the gaps in the trees and especially around the bases were bigger than others and required several layers of greenstuff. The best guide I have seen for liquid greenstuff is here at Pirate Viking and he explains it much better than I probably would.

Large gaps to fill all over this tree


Filling large gaps in the tree


Large gaps in tree filled! All in the space of about 30 mins with 3 layers of liquid greenstuff - it's the stuff that dreams are made of!

Once fully dry, we sprayed our trees Black with Citadel Chaos Black spray and the bases Brown with Army Painter Leather Brown. We decided to spray the bases Leather Brown as this is almost identical to Citadel Calthan Brown and is therefore almost identical to the colour of our table. You could easily just spray your base black and give it a layer of Calthan Brown and it would look the same. We just opted for the slightly quicker and therefore lazier option. To be super lazy, we dried the spray with a hair dryer set on low (Warning: do not do this for too long as you will are likely to start melting your models).

I'm one lean, mean, hairdryering machine...
Those trees had no chance.

Once to this stage, we did a rather simple paint scheme…


Paint all over with Charadon Granite (you can water this down a bit before doing so)

Drybrush with Khemri Brown

Lighter Drybrush with Fortress Grey

Why do a final drybrush of grey I hear you say? (I like the feeling of audience participation, it gives me a happy sensation of panto-esque warmth). I hate (love) to shatter your world view – but many trees are more grey than brown and most bark has a grey tone to it. So, for a more realistic feel to your trees, paint them brown and give them a light drybrush of grey to finish them off.

The bases to the trees were the same paint scheme as our table to ensure it all blended together.


Calthan Brown (or Army Painter Leather Brown Spray)

Drybrush of Calthan Brown and Tausept Ochre 2:1 mix

Lighter Drybrush of Tausept Ochre and Bleached Bone 1:1 mix


Exactly the same as Part 2: Painting Walls and Fences


We then flocked them in the same way as the table. Except, we didn’t bother with the Citadel Scorched Flock (the darker stuff) as you can’t see it too well on smaller scenery pieces – best saved for large open terrain – like a gaming table.

What an awesome set of trees even if I do say so myself.

Ta Da!


Part 2 – Painting Walls and Fences


So I did wax lyrical about the wonders of walls and fences and how great they are in games, how they can add narrative and that they are generally cool. But this all seemed to melt away when I actually sat down to batch paint the sheer quantity of them that we have.

Now, any sane person would not have the amalgamated content of more than 3 boxes of Walls and Fences and I hope would have the common sense not to try to paint them all of them at once.

*Enter Sophie stage left*

I, however had no such inclinations – not until I had got precisely half way through. This is really the very worst of all possible situations. I had ran out of steam and had precisely nothing in terms of painted scenery to show for it and the end too far in the future to see.

As you can see... I was absolutely thrilled to be painting wals and fences.

I will admit I felt defeated and avoided the project for 3 days. I avoided looking at the pile of hobby left woefully untended to and then I came across an epiphany. I got really excited about the Garden of Morr kit and I ran out and instantly bought it. ‘But that’s the worst possible thing to do when you haven’t finished your first scenery project’ I hear the fictional audience proclaim – but it was exactly the right thing. Now I had motivation to finish the project and moved forward on it with gusto!

The Garden of Morr (graveyard) made me very happy.


The paint schemes I finally ended up using were:

Fences under-coated in Army Painter Leather Brown Spray

Walls under-coated in Citadel Black Spray


Drybrush with Snakebite Leather

Lighter Drybrush of Fortress Grey (Just the top half on the fence to make them look a little wind-beaten)

Wash with Gryphonne Sepia


Drybrush with Bubonic Brown

Lighter Drybrush of Bleached Bone

Wash with Gryphonne Sepia

A few examples for your viewing pleasure.


Walls and Rocks:

Heavy Drybrush with Adeptus Battlegrey

Drybrush with Codex Grey

Light Drybrush with Fortress Grey

Wash with Watered Down Gryphonne Sepia

Lighter Drybrush with Skull White

(this is exactly the same as the rock on the gaming table)

See kids... walls can be fun!

Metal Detail:

Paint Boltgun Metal

Wash with Devlan Mud

 Trees and Bases:

exactly the same as in Part 1: Building and Painting Woods.



And don’t they look good too?